Recipe | Fish stew with gremolata

Can’t be arsed with a preamble. Too much to do. This recipe rocks and is Dukan-friendly etc.

Serves 4
2 red onions, peeled and roughly chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely sliced
1 head of fennel, trimmed and chopped
A piece of orange peel
A dried red chilli
A big glug of vermouth or Pernod
A handful of cherry tomatoes
A tin of tomatoes
500g white fish, chopped into chunks
200g raw prawns
A handful of clams
For the gremolata
A bunch of parsley, finely chopped
A clove of garlic, finely chopped
Zest of a lemon

- Heat a drop of oil in a large saucepan and gently fry the onions, garlic and fennel with a pinch of salt until softened. Ten minutes should do it. Add the orange peel, chilli, and vermouth, and simmer for a couple of minutes before adding the tomatoes. Cover and simmer for five minutes until the cherry tomatoes have softened but haven’t broken down entirely. Add the fish, stir, cover and simmer gently for 5-10 minutes until the clams have all opened and the fish is cooked.

- Meanwhile make the gremolata by mixing the parsley, garlic, and lemon zest. Season the stew with a generous scrunch of pepper and serve with a sprinkling of gremolata and, if you’re not a tedious Dukan groupie, some crusty bread.

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Article | Food in Britain: Better than we think

Last week dragged with it yet more news of the UK’s gastronomic inadequacy and ignorance of such nebulous concepts as “nutrition” and “balanced diet”. It’s been 20 years since the seemingly arbitrary five-a-day rule was conceived by a group of carrot-peddling fruit and veg companies in California, but it would seem that we Brits haven’t taken this particular stroke of marketing genius to belly, for we eat the fewest vegetables in all of Europe.

Not only are we not eating our greens, according to a recent study over half of the meals eaten out in this country are – gasp! – fast food.

As ever, the press cherry-pick the naughty side of fast food and have us believe that we’re scarfing tonnes of cheese-slapped patties flopped between two halves of a bun with a squirt of acrid gunge and a side order of fries. This is, of course, bunk. Continue reading at the Guardian...

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Recipe | An Asian pheasant broth

Pheasants are, of course, Asian, or at least Central Asian, but in this case the ‘Asian’ refers to the broth. I know some people have a problem with the seemingly ignorant catch-all of ‘Asian food’ (quite why I don’t know, it’s food from Asia innit?) but in this case it’s probably appropriate. This has no particular national root, but is instead a sort of vegetal fridge slut perked up with lemongrass and chillies and other bits and pieces from the bottle cupboard.

The broth was just the poaching liquor from a hen pheasant – poaching, being the best way to cook this bird, particularly if you’re avoiding the otherwise essential bacon (sob) – and it was augmented with shredded pieces of the legs and the scraggy bits left on the breast. You could use chicken stock and leftover chicken, or even omit the meat altogether.

This is Dukan-friendly, natch.

***

Serves 4-6
Quarter of a red cabbage, shredded
A small head of fennel, finely sliced
An onion, peeled and finely sliced
A clove of garlic, peeled and finely sliced
A stalk of lemongrass, finely chopped
Coriander stalks, finely chopped
A red chilli, deseeded in a half-arsed sort of way, and finely chopped
Shaoxing rice wine – a generous splash
1.5 litres pheasant/chicken stock
Star anise
Cinnamon stick
Splashes of: fish sauce (steady but not too steady)
sesame oil (just a few drops)
Rice wine vinegar (a few shakes)
Soy sauce (a couple of tbsp?)
Leftover pheasant/chicken*
Finely sliced spring onion and red chilli to garnish

***

- Heat a drop of oil in a large pan and add all the veggie bits. Stir for a couple of minutes until softened, then tip in the rice wine. Let it whoosh, stir, then add the stock, spices, and unguents. Bring to a boil and simmer very gently for 15 minutes.

- Add the meat and simmer for a further 5 minutes or, if using raw meat, until the meat is cooked. Serve garnished with spring onion and chilli.

**

 Later that evening, when still a little peckish, I strained the hot broth into a cup and sipped in front of the telly. It was like a delicious, spiced game tea.

*Or use raw sliced chicken

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The Secret Larder at Music 4 Life | 4th Feb 2012

This year marks the 10th anniversary of the charity Cancer Research UK, and as part of the celebrations Unifunk are putting on a night of music, revelry, and food. 

Which is where I come in. We’ll be transporting the Secret Larder from our Holloway flat to the Metal Works in Islington. It’s a brilliant space and I’ll be sharing it with DJs and bands and, with any luck, lots of hungry people. Full details are on the Unifunk website, but here are the bits you need to know:

Date: 4th February 2012

Venue: Islington Metal Works

Time: 7pm-Midnight (two sittings)

Cost: £52.50 (that’s £20 for entry to the whole event, £30 for dinner, plus a booking fee)

Menu:

- Cauliflower soup, shiitake, onion, truffle salt
- Soused herring, pickled shallots, leaves
- Roast shoulder of mutton, parmesan polenta, caponata, salsa verde
- Rhubarb and rose pavlova

Click here for 7pm sitting, here for 9pm sitting.

For more details visit Unifunk website or email rsvp@unifunk.com. Hope to see you there!

J x

PS If you’d like to help out, either front of house or in the kitchen, do give me a shout.

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A week of Dukan | Cruise recipe ideas

Well, I’ve made it seven whole days on the Dukan diet without once, at least to my knowledge, buckling. There has been the odd vodka and slimline tonic, though I think that, like counting cards or masturbating on an airplane, is merely frowned upon. It’s not verboten. I’ve lost 9lb and still have at least a portion of willpower left to see this through.

At this point I should perhaps state that my opinion of diets hasn’t really changed. I still think they’re silly. I think they make one unhappy – or in this case a vacillating combination of deeply miserable and giddily chipper – and I think broadly speaking they are, as the detractors say, doomed to fail.

Everyone loves to give their tuppenceworth about diets (or in the case of this blog a platform to chuck in at least a fiver). The most consistent suggestions goes something like: “if you want to lose weight just eat less and exercise more.” I’ve said it myself. It is of course true. But it is also like saying to an alcoholic, “just have one glass of wine a day.” People don’t work that way. If you have the self-discipline to follow the eat less/exercise more approach, then good on you.

I don’t, and for all the mood swings, the self-imposed ostracism, the denial, the strange guilt-ridden dreams, and the shadowy sense that this is all a bootless vanity, the ephemeral shortcomings are worth it if the end result is a healthier, happier human being. Furthermore, and as I have said before, I think it is no bad thing to deny oneself some of life’s pleasures from time to time.

*****

The first day of the ‘Cruise’ stage – involving alternating protein only days with protein and veg days, not becoming a Scientologist and hiding in a closet (although at times hiding in a closet is quite appealing) – brings such elation you’ll think the smallest bean the greatest morsel to ever pass your lips. Balls to seasonality, you just want fresh, crunchy greens.

I fell on the vegetable aisle like a sea lion on another sea lion who may or may not be trying to boff the sexy young sea lion lady. A stir fry of prawns, mange touts, spring onions, shiitake, garlic, soy and fish sauce almost made me weep with joy, though it could have done with chillies – which for some reason I thought, being a fruit, were a no-no (they’re not) – and peanuts (which are), but my god man…it erased the previous five days quicker than a very nervous person with an etchasketch.

Dinner, a simple chilli – though let me tell you the sweet taste of tomato was a treat in itself – with aubergine gunge and peppers, was an ethnically confused affair but worked perfectly well. Roast halved pepper and an aubergine in a very hot oven (250C) for 20 minutes while your chilli bubbles away. Skin the aubergine and mash with 0% yoghurt, lemon juice, garlic, and parsley. Stuff the peppers with the chilli and lob on the aubergine mess.

I leave it to you, dear reader, to tell me when you’re bored of my wanging on about this Dukan nonsense, and I’ll talk about something else. Like how at the supper club last night my sister managed to get locked in the bathroom for two hours.

 

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Three days into Dukan



The first day was difficult. There was little care or art in the food I cooked, but instead a wish to merely fill my face with as much protein as possible so that I could think about something other than food.

It didn’t really work. You see, eating a single food group on repeat is a largely unsatisfying process. A plate groaning with chicken livers (cooked in sherry vinegar, onion and garlic) with herbs, chopped gherkin, low-fat yoghurt – vile stuff if you ask me – and sprinkled with smoked paprika sounds decent enough, but was crucially missing bread or, say, something green and crunchy. It wasn’t a complete dish.

That was lunch. Thenceforth the day became increasingly feral, culminating in what can only be described as the most depressing burger ever cooked, a great cowpat of minced beef flip-flopped in a pan and eaten with all the enthusiasm of a polar bear with a carrot.

Oh, and I didn’t mention breakfast. Dukan insists on a tablespoon and a half of oat bran a day. I omitted to beat around the bush and just chucked it onto a blob of yoghurt, in one fell swoop discovering the root of the bad breath side effects of the regime.

The next two days, happily, were more than bearable. Man can withstand plenty of horrors as long as he is allowed tea and coffee, not to mention endless, ambrosial diet cokes. Believe me, when there is no sugar in your diet and no grog to boot, a glass of diet coke, ice and a slice is an incomparable treat.

I’ve eaten oysters, crayfish tails squidged with lemon juice, shallot and tarragon-spiked oatbran pancakes with smoked salmon (see photo), a sirloin steak with a chicken liver and sherry vinegar gunge – like a Dukan steak Rossini – and a ham hock hash with a fried egg.*

This last one I’m not sure about. Dukan forbids pork but allows ham. In fact he forbids pork but later allows “low-fat ham, sliced low-fat chicken, and pork”. Confused? Me too. I ate through it.

So this is day four. Thoughts so far in brief:

Positives
- Belly smaller (belt looser and buttons on overcoat less, erm, strained)
- Scales don’t creak so much (and are either broken or show considerably less weight)
- Sleeping like a BABY, despite all the caffeine (though dream of food all night. Possibly reason for baby-like sleep. That or no booze.)
- Feel relatively sharp-brained, despite warnings
- Breath yet to start smelling like a jouster’s armpit, despite warnings

Negatives
- Regularity an issue, as predicted (despite vast amounts of coffee)
- Occasional bouts of short-temper (oddly spikes when people give half-informed advice on dieting, hmm)
- A general lack of fulfilment, though I maintain self-discipline is good for the soul

Of course the positives are only really relevant if I can keep this up. Dukan isn’t a fad diet in the traditional sense, in that it is a prolonged commitment, not a quick fix. It only becomes a fad diet if you give up after part one. Phase two, I fear, will be the hard bit. Stand by for a meltdown.

 

* It should be mentioned at this point that this is not the cheapest diet. You could try existing on value ham but I’d wager you’ll last about 36 hours before giving up. Better to make what you do eat as pleasurable as possible. Furthermore, depending on what sort of lifestyle you lead, of course, cutting out alcohol should save you a fair amount of money, as will the inevitable lack of jollies to eat out.

 

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The Fukan Diet begins…

It appears I may be in the process of committing professional suicide. I’m starting the Dukan diet today.

There are undoubtedly, more enjoyable ways to lose weight. I have long been a staunch believer in the ‘eat less, exercise more’ method. I’m quite good at the second part. I run a bit. Last year I ran a lot. 26 miles in one go back in April. But then summer comes and summer is the time for sitting outside eating beer and drinking chips. Then of course autumn arrives and it’s time for roots and pies. And more beer. Then suddenly it’s Christmas and you’re skulling more grog than ever while you keep a dustpan-sized shovel close to hand as a means of tipping as much scran down your gullet as is humanly, and humanely, possible. It is not long before you are as fat as a French goose.

You see, the problem is that food, like Super Hans’ crack, is just so moreish. I for one simply don’t have the temperament to eat a little less bread before dinner, drink one vodka and slimline tonic, and have the steamed sea bass with a glass of white wine. I want a negroni, four baskets of bread, the pork terrine, the…actually just bring the lot.

So it’s time to go hardcore. For the next five days I will eat nothing but lean protein and a spoonful of the emetically faecal oat bran. After that there’s a period of you’ve probably stopped reading so I won’t bother to explain. Diets are boring. I shall do my best to make this entertaining. If it’s not then I won’t bother writing.

Toodles!

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Recipe | Tandoori chicken with cucumber panch phoron salad

Hello, and a happy new year! Hope you all had an aggressively indulgent festive break and are now, like me, sitting at your desks and spilling over the sides of your chair like a bag of sand slung over a wall.

Here’s a wee recipe to kick off 2012. Very straightforward, and extremely delicious. If you can’t find panch phoron, use a pinch of any or all of: fenugreek seeds, nigella seeds, cumin seed, fennel seed, celery seed. Incidentally, panch is Hindi for ‘five’, which is where we get the drink ‘punch’, because it contains five ingredients – booze, sugar, water, spices, lemon. Thanks, Etymologicon.

Usual Indian food caveats about NOT being alarmed by long ingredients list apply. This takes minutes to prep and, panch phoron aside, you should be able to find all these in the supermarket. Leave out any you can’t find.

*****

Serves 2
2 chicken supremes/breasts, skin on
Small pot natural yoghurt
1 tsp garam masala
2 tsp hot paprika
2 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp chilli powder
1/2 tsp fenugreek, ground
1/4 tsp ground ginger
Pinch ground cinnamon
Pinch ground mace
Pinch ground cloves
Squirt tomato puree
2 cloves of garlic, crushed to a paste
Juice of half a lemon
Salt and pepper
~
Half a cucumber
Half a red onion, very finely sliced
Small bunch coriander
Panch phoron
Juice of half a lemon
Olive oil

***

- From the top list of ingredients, combine everything but the chicken in a mixing bowl. I would advise not adding lemon juice and salt till later if you are marinating for more than a couple of hours which, unless you are cooking this when you get back from work, you may well be.*

- Slash the skin on the chicken and rub all over with the marinade. Leave for 1-24 hours. Preheat the oven to 250C. Season with salt and lemon juice if needs be. Roast on the top shelf for 20-25 minutes.

- Meanwhile, halve the cucumber down the middle and scrape out the seeds. Discard. Slice the cucumber and add to the sliced red onion. Toast the spices in a dry frying pan for a minute or so, taking care not to burn. Add to the salad along with chopped coriander, lemon juice, olive oil, and a pinch of salt.

- Rest the chicken for five minutes before serving with the salad and rice or naan.

* The lemon juice will toughen the meat, the salt dry it out a little.

 

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Recipe | Mini eggs benedict

The hunt for a decent alternative to ‘canape’ continues. There have been some fine suggestions – open-faced sandwich, catch-me-if-you-canape, the tenuous pun of ‘tin-monkey’ – but, alas, there’s been nothing that has quite done the job. Perhaps, like ‘foodie’, it’s just a word we’re lumped with.

Instead of simply wriggling out of giving away a book, I’ll now chuck one at whoever can come up with the best *cough* canape idea for Christmas – one that doesn’t involve endless faffing but something more interesting than a piece of atomically orange salmon on yesterday’s bread.

Meanwhile, I think this one is a cracker. It comes via Jim Fisher, a chef based in France who runs the wonderful and cryptically named cookery school Cook in France. Jim uses smoked duck and poached quail egg, so this isn’t 100% accurate, but it works well enough.

***

Makes 12
12 Clarence Court quail eggs
Smoked ham
Bread (I used a brioche)
2-3 tbsp mayonnaise – home-made or decent shop-bought
A lemon

***

- With a bite-sized-ish cookie cutter cut 12 pieces of bread and 12 slices of ham. Whisk a squeeze of lemon into the mayonnaise and taste. You could of course make hollandaise instead, which would be more of a classic dressing for eggs benedict, but I’d wager you probably can’t be arsed.

- In a dry frying pan (or oven/AGA) toast the pieces of bread and keep warm. Add a drop of oil to the pan and fry the quail eggs over a medium heat for about a minute, seasoning with salt and pepper as you go.

- Put a slice of ham on the toast and top with a quail egg and a blob of lemon mayonnaise. Eat.

This recipe was developed for Clarence Court eggs. 

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Recipe | Quail egg and gruyere pies


‘Canapes’ are, like most food, at their best when unfussy. In fact the word ‘canape’ implies a fair amount of fiddling and I don’t like it, but somehow ‘nibbles’ seems a bit twee and ‘hors d’oeuvre’ just dreadful, so for now canape it is.

Avoid those that will take you approximately 500x the time to make as they do to eat. Don’t feel compelled to buy micro herbs and scallops, to make your own yuzu jelly or filo pastry. Remember, all people want is something to line the stomach and that, if possible, hasn’t come from Iceland. They like salty, they like cheesy, maybe porky, possibly hot, and ideally something that doesn’t squirt down their favourite shirt.

Like these…

Quail egg and gruyere pies

Makes 12

500g puff pastry
Dijon mustard
Gruyere
12 Clarence Court quail eggs
An egg, beaten
Salt and pepper

You will also need a shallow muffin tin and a large cookie cutter

- Lightly oil the muffin tin. Cut the pastry in half and roll out one half to about the thinness of four business cards. Cut 12 rounds and lay them in your tin. Add a blob of mustard and a slice of cheese in each before carefully dropping an egg in each. Season with salt and pepper.

- Roll out the other half and repeat, laying the second batch of rounds over the top and sealing at the edges. Cut a little hole in the top of each to let the steam escape and brush with beaten egg. Stick in the fridge for half an hour. Or four hours, if you’re getting ahead with things.

- Preheat the oven to 200C. Bake the pies for 6-7 minutes until puffed and golden. Serve.

Can you think of a better word for canape? Best suggestion gets a free copy of Small Adventures in Cooking. Pop in the comment box.

This recipe was developed for Clarence Court eggs. 

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