God but vegetarians must get bored of goat’s cheese. Goat’s cheese, mushrooms, risotto…these are the near-meaty staples the poor, protein-deprived blighters are destined to be proffered by cooks who just didn’t have the time to spend a fortnight tracking down all the ingredients necessary to make Yotam’s multi-vegetable paella. But there is a reason for their ubiquity. Well, several. They are accessible, affordable and, most importantly, (when done right) delicious.

Here’s a wee recipe to zhoosh up your standard chevre.

Serves 2
2 rounds of goat’s cheese, about 100g each
A chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
Some or all of chopped mint, lemon thyme, parsley
A tiny clove of garlic, crushed to a paste
An aubergine
Olive oil
Salt and pepper

***

– In an oven proof dish, mix the chilli, herbs and garlic with an aggressively generous sloshing of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Tip over the cheeses and leave to sit for a couple of hours, turning occasionally.

– Meanwhile, slice the aubergine very thinly, lengthways, and grill on both sides. Set aside to cool.

– Preheat the oven to 180C. Wrap the aubergine around the cheese and return to the dish. Bake for 10-12 minutes. Serve with crusty bread and salad. There may be a temptation to tip away the excess oil. Don’t. This is the bread-dipping stuff of dreams.